We’ve spent weeks driving around Portugal and have had the pleasure of road tripping from the top down to the bottom. No matter where we stopped, we found the people friendly, the desserts delicious and the port wine flowing freely.

Best Road Trips in Portugal

From scenic coastal drives to inland trips, we’ve seen a lot firsthand, but know there’s always more to explore. Whether traveling as a couple, a family, with a group of friends or on your own, we’ve seen there’s something in Portugal for everyone.

Lisbon to Porto: Coastal Bliss

Excited to see what road trips Portugal has to offer? Here’s your guide to the best road trips in Portugal for a journey you’ll never forget.

Quick Summary

This classical Portugal road trip route offers a perfect blend of city, sea, and history. Starting from the vibrant capital Lisbon, you’ll cruise north along the coast, exploring stunning beaches, medieval towns, and bustling cities before reaching Porto, famous for its port wine and historic charm.

Route:

Lisbon – Cascais – Sintra – Nazaré – Coimbra – Aveiro – Porto

Distance/Time:

433km – Approx. 5.5hrs travel time – Google Maps

Road Trip Duration:

5-7 Days

Highlights:

• Lisbon: Capital city of Portugal with gorgeous architecture like the Jerónimos Monastery, cool street tiles, plenty of unusual things to do as well as the home of our favorite Portuguese dessert, the delicious Pasteis de Belem.
• Cascais: The Boca do Inferno, a dramatic cliffside chasm is worth stopping for.
• Sintra: Explore both the colorful Pena Palace as well as the beautiful Quinta da Regaleira palace (plus both their amazing gardens).
• Nazaré: Stand in awe of Nazarés huge waves, visit Our Lady of Nazaré Sanctuary plus check out the Miradouro do Suberco, a viewpoint offering awesome panoramic ocean views.
• Coimbra: Home of the Joanina Library, one of the most beautiful libraries in the world as well as the popular University of Coimbra.
• Aveiro: Canals adorned with brightly colored boats called moliceiros line this Portuguese city, often called the Venice of Portugal.
• Porto: Sample different ports, go on a Douro river cruise and check out Livraria Lello, one of the world’s most beautiful bookstores.

Tip:

While Nazaré is popular for day trips, consider spending a night here. At night, once the day tourists leave, you’ll get the chance to experience the quiet charm of this fishing village, which is both rich in tradition and local flavor.

Douro Valley: The Wine Circuit

Quick Summary:

For port and wine lovers, this route is paradise. Beginning in Porto, you’ll journey into the heart of Portugal’s wine country, following the Douro River through scenic towns and valleys, and stopping for vineyard tours and tastings along the way.

Route:

Porto – Amarante – Peso da Régua – Pinhão – Vila Real

Distance/Time:

188km – Approx. 3hrs travel time – Google Maps

Duration:

3-5 Days

Highlights:

• Porto: The iconic Ribeira District along the Douro River and the Porto Cathedral, a 900 year old building with amazing tile art.
• Amarante: Ponte de São Gonçalo, an arched bridge with tons of historical significance.
• Peso da Régua: Douro Museum, exploring the history and culture of the Douro region.
• Pinhão: The train station adorned with blue-and-white Azulejo tiles.
• Vila Real: The 18th-century Mateus Palace and its gorgeous gardens.
• Peso da Régua: Douro River Cruise and Museu do Douro.
• Pinhão: Wine estates and Azulejos-decorated train station.
• Vila Real: Mateus Palace.

Tip:

The Douro Valley is the birthplace of port wine, and no visit would be complete without diving into this local specialty. Many vineyards offer tastings and tours where you can learn about the winemaking process from grape to bottle. But it’s not just about port; the region also produces exceptional red and white wines. Make sure to take a guided tour of at least one wine estate to fully appreciate the region’s rich viticultural history.

The Algarve: Sun-Kissed Splendor

Quick Summary:

This southern loop offers the quintessential Algarve experience: golden beaches to lounge away the hot summer days, rocky coves to explore and bustling towns filled with nightlife. The route takes you from the historic city of Faro to the westernmost point of the Algarve, providing a well-rounded tour of this sun-soaked region.

Route:

Tavira – Faro – Albufeira – Lagos – Sagres

Distance/Time:

168km – Approx. 3hrs travel time – Google Maps

Duration:

5-7 Days

Highlights:

• Tavira: The Roman Bridge, a picturesque seven-arched bridge.
• Faro: Arco da Vila, an arched gateway dating back to Moorish times.
• Albufeira: Nightlife hub of the Algarve. Also check out Old Town, a vibrant area filled with shops, restaurants, and bars.
• Lagos: Ponta da Piedade, known for its stunning rock formations and Praia Dona Ana.
• Sagres: Fortaleza de Sagres, a cliff-top fortress with panoramic sea views and Cape St. Vincent. Also very popular with kite surfers.

Tip:

Tavira offers a less crowded, more authentic Algarve experience. It’s relatively untouched by large-scale tourism, making it an ideal spot for a quieter beach escape and to explore traditional Portuguese culture. If you want to be where the action is, Albufeira is where you want to be.

Madeira: The Garden Isle

Quick Summary:

Portugal’s southern island of Madeira provides a distinct road trip experience full of natural beauty and old-world charm. Starting in Funchal, this island route offers lush gardens, volcanic pools, and coastal views that are second to none.

Route:

Funchal – Câmara de Lobos – Ribeira Brava – Porto Moniz – Santana

Distance/Time:

117km – Approx. 2.5hrs travel time – Google Maps

Duration:

4-6 Days

Highlights:

• Funchal: Monte Palace Tropical Garden offering views over Funchal Bay, take a crazy Toboggan ride in a traditional wicker basket down the city roads and visit the lovely Mercado dos Lavradores.
• Câmara de Lobos: Picturesque fishing village immortalized by Winston Churchill’s paintings.
• Ribeira Brava: Forte de São Bento, a historic fort with scenic sea views.
• Porto Moniz: Natural lava pools perfect for a unique swimming experience and the Madeira Aquarium.
• Santana: Thatched-roof A-frame houses showcasing traditional Madeiran architecture Queimadas Forest Park.

Tip:

The Laurisilva Forest is a must-see in Madeira. This UNESCO World Heritage site covers about 20% of the island. A walk here reveals a rare glimpse of Europe’s prehistoric landscapes. The flora and fauna are unique, and the sense of tranquility is unparalleled.

Azores: Volcanic Adventure

Quick Summary:

Portugal’s Azores islands are an off-the-beaten-path treasure in the middle of the Atlantic. Starting in Ponta Delgada, this route offers a journey through volcanic landscapes, cliffside viewpoints, and lush greenery that encapsulates the untamed beauty of these islands.

Route:

Ponta Delgada – Sete Cidades – Furnas – Nordeste

Distance/Time:

126km – Approx. 2.5hrs travel time – Google Maps

Duration:

4-6 Days

Highlights:

• Ponta Delgada: Forte de São Brás, a 16th-century fortress plus check out Twin lakes and Vista do Rei.
• Sete Cidades: Visit Lagoa do Fogo, a stunning crater lake.
• Furnas: Terra Nostra Garden, a beautiful botanical garden with thermal pools.
• Nordeste: Miradouro da Ponta do Sossego, offering panoramic views of cliffs and ocean.

Tip:

The Azores are one of the world’s best spots for whale watching. While most visitors come between April and October, each season offers a different array of species. Book a tour with a reputable operator to enhance your chances of sightings and to ensure ethical practices.

Travel Tips for Any Route:

• Toll Roads: Portugal has many toll roads. A Via Verde (Green Lane) electronic device can be rented to automatically pay some tolls while others require a toll pass, both will save you time and fuss.
• Gas Stations: Fuel up in larger towns as rural areas may have limited services. Gas stations also often close early in remote regions.
• Local Laws: Always have your ID and driving license with you. Portuguese traffic police are known for random checks, and fines for not having proper identification or a proper toll pass can be steep.

The Best Road Trips in Portugal

With each road trip offering its own unique set of attractions and nuances, Portugal promises an adventure that caters to all kinds of travelers. We loved our time here and the entire family always enjoyed jumping into the car knowing that the next stop was going to be just as amazing as the last. Safe travels!

More great reads:

• How to Use a VPN to Get Cheaper Flights: An Easy Step-by-Step Guide
• This International WiFi Hotspot Gives You Unlimited Travel Internet: The TravelWifi Tep Wireless
• 45 Great Jobs You Can Do While Traveling The World And How To Get Them

Tired of all the beautiful artwork and great architecture and want to see something a little different?

Today our focus is on a few unusual things to do in Lisbon and the best way to see them. We’ve already covered some of the best things to do in Lisbon so make sure you check out that post after if you want some more ideas.

Lisbon is approximately 300km south of Porto, the easiest way to get there from the north is to book a train from Porto to Lisbon via Omio or you can rent a car and drive yourself. Just be aware that there are plenty of confusing Portuguese toll roads, so be mindful on which roads you’re driving on if you decide to rent a car.

Unusual Things to do in Lisbon Portugal

Here they are, our favorite unusual, weird, unique, or just plain quirky things to do in Lisbon.

Get tangled at the Museu da Marioneta (Museum of Puppetry)

If you love marionettes, then the Museu da Marioneta should be high on your list of places to check out.

It features marionettes and puppets from around the world, and plenty from Portugal itself. It has a huge selection spanning centuries and twines the rich history of puppet opera that existed in both Portugal and Europe since the middle ages.

This museum of puppetry is located in a remodelled convent originally built in 1665, and then rebuilt after the great quake in 1786. The Convento das Bernardas, at Madragoa, in the center of Lisbon was again remodeled in 2001 and features the museum, a restaurant, a café and outdoor areas.

How to Get There

Museu da Marioneta – Take Tram 25 on weekdays and bus 774 on weekends, which departs from Praça da Figueira downtown.

Stand on top of the Lisbon Bridge

Ever wished you could stand atop the Golden Gate bridge in San Francisco? Well, the same developers who made the Oakland Bay Bridge made the Lisbon Bridge back in 1965.

Originally known as the Salazar bridge when first completed, it was the 5th largest suspension bridge in the world and the longest in Europe. After Salazar was removed from power, the bridge was renamed to the 25th of April Bridge (named after the day of liberation in 1974). It has a more eloquent name of Ponte 25 de Abril in Portuguese however it’s often just called the Lisbon Bridge and straddles the Tagus River connecting Lisbon to Almada in the south.

You can check out the museum located at Pier 7 (Pilar 7) that gives you a background on the bridges construction and even lets you see the huge cables holding the bridge from up close. There’s also an elevator you can take that will bring you up to the top where you can step into a glass enclosed outdoor viewing platform and see both the huge bridge and the river below. It’s a rare chance to get that close up and lets you appreciate the ingenuity and bravery of the people who built it.

Where to find the Lisbon Bridge

Ponte 25 de Abril – Pilar 7 – Open most days and free with the Lisboa Pass. There’s ample parking down below the bridge or you can take the tram to get there.

Check out the Pleasure Cemetery in Lisbon

Highly regarded as one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Portugal, the Cemiterio dos Prazeres (translates to Pleasure Cemetery in English) is worth a visit.

Filled with beautiful crypts, tombs and mausoleums overlooking the bay, some people compare it to walking in a miniature town the embellishments are so intricate.

If you’re looking for a nice walk and enjoy walking on the quieter side of life then for sure check it out.

Where to find the Cemiterio dos Prazeres

Cemiterio dos Prazeres – Located near the terminus of historic Tram 28

Walk Among the Fishes at the Oceanarium of Lisbon

It’s not every day you get to stroll around and stare at fish and water creatures from below. The Oceanário de Lisboa is often rated as one of the best Aquariums in Europe and while it falls more to the popular category rather than the unusual, if you grew up in the prairies of Canada you would understand how cool and unusual it is to me.

With a center tank spanning over 3 floors, you get to witness everything from the corals and sand walkers down below to the colorful fish that populate the mid zone to the groups of smaller fish populating the top of the tank.

From sea otters to sea dragons and sun fish, there is a lot to take in and there will likely be a few species you’ve never seen before.

Make sure to give yourself plenty of time to see everything and bring some good walking shoes, since I guarantee you some of the tanks will keep you spellbound for hours.

What you need to know about the Lisbon Aquarium

Oceanário de Lisboa – Located at Doca dos Olivais, Parque das Nações. There are several buses and trains going here including Red line – Oriente (East) Station.

Have a delicious snack then head over to the Belem Tower

Ok, to be 100% honest, neither of these is especially unusual, but they were some of our favorite things to do in Lisbon and I couldn’t resist adding them.

Pastéis de nata are a national dessert in Portugal. Most versions owe their start to ones first made by the Jerónimos Monastery, who passed on their closely guarded original recipe to the Pasteis De Belem pastry shop nearly 200 hundred years ago.

Either sit down and enjoy some of these delicious cooked custard tarts with a tasty cup of coffee, or grab some to go and eat in the shadow of the iconic Torre de Belém only a few blocks away.

Its long 500 years of guarding the city from water invasions, changing sea levels, a catastrophic earthquake that levelled the majority of the city and now hordes of tourists speaks to the quality of the original design.

Where to find the Torre de Belem and Pasteis De Belem

Pasteis De Belem – Rua de Belém nº 84 a 92

Torre de Belem – Av. Brasília, 1400-038 Lisboa, Portugal

Go 360º at the Panoramico de Monsanto

Take 1 part street art exhibit, 2 part abandoned building and 3 parts awesome 360º views, and what do you get? That’s right, the Panoramico de Monsanto in Lisbon.

This impressive abandoned former restaurant in the heart of Monsanto Forest has been the site of festivals, a Madonna music video, a home for hideaways and is a local tagger hotspot since it shut down in the 70’s.

It has since turned into a tourist draw by the graffiti, the grittiness and the amazing 360 degree views of the city.

Open and free most days to the public, it does get closed for festivals or certain events.

Where is the Panoramico de Monsanto?

Panoramico de Monsanto – Located in the Monsato Forest just on the edge of the city, the easiest way to get here is to hire an Uber or by bus 711 or 724 from Marquis de Pombal, then walk 10 minutes through the forest.

Take a day trip to Sintra and the wonders of Pena Palace

Leaving the city for a day trip isn’t unusual, however what is unusual is the overly colorful opulence that is Pena Palace and its crazy heights overlooking the nearby mountain town of Sintra.

Just like any modern fairytale, this colorful castle was dreamed up by a prince, and then built by a king. Constructed during the 19th-century Romanticism period, the castle is a great example of the era.

It has such a rich history you can get lost in its stories just as easily as the hectares of land around it, which include the Castle of the Moors and several other structures worth investigating.

The Palace is definitely worth the short drive from Lisbon. There’s plenty to see and do around Sintra while you’re out there as well.

How to get to the Pena Palace Sintra

Only 30 minutes by car due west of Lisbon proper. It’s not hard to miss high on the mountain however getting to it can be daunting so take a map or make sure you have Google Maps with you. You can also get there via the Sintra Bus 434 To Pena Palace if you’re using public transit. Take the Sintra train from Lisbon and get off in Sintra center then grab Bus 434. You can also buy a train and bus pass before leaving Lisbon or use your Lisboa Pass. Bus 434 should take you right to the mountain top.

Become a Portuguese tile expert at The National Tile Museum

If you’re a tile art aficionado, the National Tile Museum in Lisbon or the Museu Nacional do Azulejo as it’s properly called locally, houses hundreds of painted tiles spanning five centuries from various corners of the globe.

Sure, we could tell you to walk around and stare at all the amazing street tiles in Lisbon for free, but we’ve already done that in this Portugese Pavement post, so now that you’re hooked on tile art, read on.

The gallery highlights artistic tiles or azulejos from the final part of the 1500’s to the current day. Other than tiles, it also features ceramics, porcelain and faience as well as highlights the materials and strategies used for assembling tiles over the years.

As well as tiles, the museum itself dates back to 1509, when it was the former Convent of Madre Deus. As such, it also features a beautiful chapel area complete with dozens of beautiful paintings.

Where to find the Museu Nacional do Azulejo

Museu Nacional do Azulejo – Rua da Madre de Deus, 4, 1900-312

More Unusual Things to do in Lisbon Portugal

Lisbon is a great city to explore. With plenty of hills and on the doorstep of the Atlantic Ocean, there are gorgeous views all around town. Whether you’re checking out any of a dozen museums or wandering around old cathedrals there’s plenty of architecture and history to go around.

With the great earthquake in 1755, this once world class city lost a lot of its history but I think it just made what survived all the better.

Whether you’re taking the mini train to the beach, or just checking out the many fantastic restaurants and cafes, there are many fun things to do that any bigger city has as well.

You’ll find plenty of pubs, clubs and dance centers for the younger partyers including some great sail and drink trips in the summer months. To get around you can hop aboard a funicular, an old fashioned tram or take the fast and efficient underground metro.

These days you can rent scooters, order an Uber, or go old school and jump on one of the many buses that zoom around the city, or Lisbon’s famous #28 tram.

If you have any tips or suggestions for unusual or quirky things to do in Lisbon we’d love to hear. Please drop us a comment below.

Cruising along Porto’s Douro River, with scents of the nearby ocean blasting fresh and brisk in my face, memories of passed ocean cruises came back to me.

Porto has become one of my very favorite cities in Europe. It’s gritty, crumbling and photogenic and the picturesque Douro river, which empties out into the bracing North Atlantic Ocean at the edge of the city ties it all together.

Nothing is more memorable than a smell. One scent can be unexpected, momentary and fleeting, yet conjure up a childhood summer beside a lake in the mountains. – Diane Ackerman

Boats depart along the red-roofed shops of Av. Diogo Leite, conveniently near many of the city’s famous port wine cellars. Visiting those is a post in itself, however after a day spent tasting their wares the details are a little fuzzy :).

The cure for anything is salt water – sweat, tears, or the sea. – Isak Dinesen

While Charles and I sat back and enjoyed watching the remains of Porto’s crumbling houses along the shore pass by, the kids reminded me of nothing more than puppies cruising in the family car on a long drive, with their noses happily out the window. They grinned as the sea air whipped their hair around, and yelped in delight at the careening seagulls.

A cruise along the Douro is a wonderful way to escape the busyness of Porto. Porto’s a lively city, packed with cafes and small shops, especially along the Ribeira district (across the river from Av. Diogo Leite, where we started our cruise).

Our cruise was a short hour long along the Douro in Porto itself, but there are many week-long cruises that take you from bustling Lisbon to the terraces of olives along the Douro at the town of Barca d’Alva, near the Spanish border.

It sounds like a wonderful way to spend a summer week making some great memories. I just can close my eyes and imagine the scent of the fresh wildflowers and the sun-warmed earth.

And now for one of my very favorite parts of what we do here at The Barefoot Nomad…

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If you’re looking for some inspiration for your own family vacation, check out the 20 Great Outdoor trip ideas on Scholastic’s Smart Family Travel.

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Often, it’s the little, quirky things that seem to capture the spirit of wherever we travel, so today we thought we’d let you have a peek into the unique street tile art of Lisbon, Portugal.

The tiles, appropriately called Portuguese pavement or calcada portuguesa, come in many mosaic patterns. Even today they’re painstakingly laid down by hand, following a process created hundreds of years ago. We found these tiles everywhere on the streets of central Lisbon in an incredible variety of artistic patterns.

They’re one of our favorite unusual things to see and do in Lisbon.

The origin of the Portuguese street tile is a bit hard to track down, though they first appeared in Lisbon near the Castelo de São Jorge. They became so popular that their use spread quickly throughout the city. Today, the tiles are found all over Portugal, and even in former Portuguese colonies, including Macau, Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, Brazil.

Sadly, these tiled streets and sidewalks are in danger of disappearing. Not only can they can be incredibly slippery, there are fewer and fewer tradespeople interested in learning the backbreaking art of maintaining these sidewalks.

Luckily for all of us, they are still popular in certain historical areas as well as numerous high end locations in Portugal and abroad.

About Rue Augusta

The photo above was taken on Rue Augusta, in the busiest part of Lisbon. Rue Augusta is a pedestrian only street filled with street cafes, flower stalls, bakeries and specialty shops selling everything from shoes and hats to Portuguese ginjinha liquor. Many old buildings, from the reconstruction of Lisbon by Marquês do Pombal after the 1755 earthquake, are still standing.

More Info

Check out our Pinterest board on Portuguese street tiles, where we’ve curated some of the best photos of these street tiles from around the world.

If you’re interested in how the pavement is made, the Portuguese Pavements Handbook (Manual da Calçada Portuguesa) has a detailed look at calçada portuguesa, covering everything from origin to detailed building specifications.

Creating the calçada portuguesa is backbreaking work, and even today the tiles are laid in much the same way they were hundreds of years ago. This video gives some idea of the backbreaking work required to create and maintain Portuguese street pavement.

It’s from this very spot on the shores of Belem that Vasco de Gama set out on July 8, 1497 and discovered a direct ocean route from Portugal to India and opened up the famed Indian Spice Route.

By historical accounts, the shores of the Tagus were filled with tear-soaked well wishers that day. The king himself, Manuel I of Portugal, came to see them off, accompanied by a procession of priests and friars, mothers, sisters, brothers and friends of De Gama and of his crew. By some accounts, almost all of Lisbon was on the shore to bid farewell to the three small ships.

We think of ourselves as travelers, but our trips are nothing compared to the hardships and adventures of those who stood on this same spot 500 years ago. The distance traveled by de Gama in those small ships was equal to circumnavigating the globe, and the voyage took well over two years (they arrived back in Lisbon on August 29, 1499).

Today, just six kilometers from Lisbon’s vibrant city center, the civil parish of Belém is home to two UNESCO World Heritage sites: the Torre de Belém (Belém Tower) and the Jerónimos Monastery (Hieronymites Monastery).

Once a small village at the entrance to the Tagus River, Belem  grew into an important trading station and even became the home to royalty and the rich. In the early 1800s, the area grew into an industrial zone thanks in part to its proximity to Lisbon and its easy water access.

After a few days in Lisbon’s bustling Bairro Alto district as part of our road trip through Portugal, we took a break from the hustle to visit the Belém Tower. At the behest of the king, the Torre de Belém was constructed to help protect the city of Lisbon and to guard the entrance of the Tagus river in 1514. It was completed in 1519 and has had a prolific life ever since. Its basement dungeons were even used as a prison for many years and the fort’s exterior has been refitted twice since its original construction.

Sitting by ourselves along the banks of the Tagus, it’s an imposing site. Unlike the majority of Lisbon’s ancient buildings, the Belem Tower survived the major 1755 Lisbon earthquakes that devastated the region fully intact. That earthquake was so severe that it actually shifted the Tagus river and the fort is now practically on the shoreline when it was originally built on an island slightly further in the river.

Maybe it was the cool weather, but the Tower was nearly deserted the day we saw it. The gate was also closed so we didn’t get a chance to see what it looked like on the inside, but we had heard that the exterior was its most impressive feature anyway.

As we walked around the backside of the fortress, the tide was low and we could see the ancient waterlines that surrounded the tower. It was an imposing site and gave the solitary tower not only an ancient air but also one of sadness.

Luckily the sadness was fleeting and the kids quickly cheered the place up when they jumped on the little beach and made a few impromptu sand castles in honor of the Tower. I’m sure it was thankful for the homage, but I think it started to brood again as we walked away.

Leaving the lonely tower behind, we drove past the giant Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Monument of Discoveries) celebrating Portugals famous Age of Discoveries. At the prow of the statue stands Henry the Navigator followed by 32 famous Portuguese figures from kings to cartographers who helped pave the way for worldwide exploration. It was drizzling so instead of getting out and checking it out up close we decided to stop for a bite to eat.

Seeing that we were in Belem, we had to stop by the famous Casa Pasteis de Belem for some pastel de nata. This shop has been an institution in Belem since 1837 and was worth every penny for its delicious pastry. We enjoyed it so much you can read our post about it here.

As we reluctantly left Casa Pasteis de Belém behind, the sun was finally peaking out so we decided to take a walk through the large parks across the street.

Right by the casa is the Praça do Império (Imperial Square) and next to it is Afonso de Albuquerque Square (Praça Afonso de Albuquerque). This square also happens to be right in front of the Belém National Palace, the official residence of past kings and now the home to the president of Portugal. The National Palace seemed quaint in comparison to some of the areas oversized structures, but in our eyes that can be forgiven since they’re practically next door to Pasteis de Belém.

After walking the grounds for a bit we wandered towards the Jerónimos Monastery. The monastery, also known as the Hieronymites Monastery for the religious order that first built it in the 15th century is a gorgeous Manueline building with crazily ornate limestone architecture with a definite maritime theme throughout the building and the grounds. This is probably why the Marine Museum is located in the monastery’s annexes.

We decided to skip  visiting the Marine Museum, but ended up walking around the monastery and the grounds for a lot longer than we expected. The amount of detail in every crevice is astounding and it almost feels like you’re walking through an expansive piece of art rather than through a church.

There’s history in every corner of the Jerónimos Monastery and it was where we found the final resting place of famed explorer Vasco De Gama.

I still remember learning about his famed 1498 voyage around the Good Cape in my history class many years ago. He is credited with opening the European spice route to India while heralding a century of exploration and Portuguese colonization. Seeing his tomb next to Portugal’s past royalty and right across from Portugal’s famed poet Luís Vaz de Camões actually gave me goosebumps.

After completing our tour of the Jerónimos Monastery, we decided to call our day a success and headed back to our place in Bairro Alto in central Lisbon for a relaxing evening meal.

Of course, it took Micki and a few impatient drivers to stop me from making a quick pit stop on the way and sneaking a few extra pastel de nata home with us. If Vasco de Gama had been born a few centuries later after Casa Pasteis de Belém opened its doors, I’m sure he would have taken a few extra on his trip as well.

Interested in learning more about Vasco de Gama’s famous voyages?

Check out the free (and a bit scholarly) book The Three Voyages of Vasco Da Gama, and His Viceroyalty by Gaspar Corrêa or these New York Times Notable Books by Nigel Cliff.

The Last Crusade: The Epic Voyages of Vasco da Gama

Holy War: How Vasco da Gama’s Epic Voyages Turned the Tide in a Centuries-Old Clash of Civilizations

This Portuguese custard tart pastry is delicious and you can find versions of it all around the country. Not only is it rich and delicious in flavor, it also has a rich history.

Originally created just before the 18th century by Catholic monks at the Jerónimos Monastery near Lisbon, the tarts are also known throughout the country as Pastéis de Belém in honor of the town in which they were invented.

Back then eggs yolks were plentiful, because the monks and sisters used the egg whites to starch their clothes and to help in the production of port. With egg yolks aplenty, dozens of custard tarts were created and perfected in those early years.

After the Liberal Revolution in 1820, most religious orders shut their doors and the delicious tarts stopped being produced. Thankfully, the world couldn’t accept this, so in stepped a few enterprising monks and by 1837 the delicious pastel de nata were again being sold, however this time at a nearby shop called Casa Pasteis de Belém.

Over the years, the Tower of Belém may have become Beléms biggest tourist draw, but Casa Pasteis de Belém isn’t far behind it. Today, the place is as busy as it was back then and as a result the original Casa Pasteis de Belem is still running strong.

Since everything is so close in Belem, the Casa Pasteis de Belem makes a great place to stop for a snack after touring historical Belem’s nearby landmarks. So after a cool morning checking out the town’s other sights, that’s where we headed.

On entering the packed shop we quickly checked out the wares in the front cabinets before making our way to one of the many back rooms. As we passed the glass windows inside, we saw where their bakers continue to make the tarts using the same heavily guarded secret recipe from way back when.

The place was so busy when we entered that we were nervous we wouldn’t be able to find a seat, however Cole spotted a great place and we quickly sat down. Within a minute a waiter arrived to take our order and we managed to get some pasteis de nata, a chocolate croissant we saw in the front case, a coffee and a few glasses of thick melted chocolate.

The hot chocolate was good, but not having it with churros like we were used to in Spain seemed odd. The chocolate croissant was also tasty, however it wasn’t the reason we were there.

The main attraction, the still warm pastel de nata, was by far the best we tasted in Portugal and left my mouth watering for more. Actually, it was hard not ordering a dozen to go, however Micki convinced me that one day we’ll just have to go back.

Looking at Casa Pasteis de Belem’s track record, I doubt the place is going anywhere for a long time. Like the Belem Tower, the place is a local treasure.

Where to Find It

Casa Pasteis de Belém is on Rua Belém just off India and Brasilia Avenue almost across from the giant Monument of Discoveries and a few buildings from the Jerónimos Monastery.

For More Information

You can check out the Casa Pasteis de Belem website here for hours and information. It’s in Flash so you have been warned.

From this high vantage point, the endless ocean looks dark and deadly. It seems to go on forever. I imagine a primitive group of explorers reaching this rocky point and looking out with wonder as they believe they have finally found the fabled end of the world. It’s easy to see why.

With a 200 foot drop only inches from my toes, a near gale force wind quickly wakes me from my reveries and reminds me of where I’m standing.

Just as suddenly, the sun breaks through the clouds, the wind slows down and my son and I look with delight at a little sailboat gliding along the waves. We watch as the tail of a passing whale breaks the rolling surface in the distance and a small pod of dolphins race onward.

Nearby, a group of fearless fishermen drop a very, very long net down the side of the cliff to pull up that evenings supper. Their precarious positions scattered along the tall ragged cliffs would make a mountain goat blanch yet here they return, day after day. I stand in awe of their tenacity, while Cole is just happy searching for the huge snails that line the pathways.

If you haven’t guessed where we are, we’re in famed Sagres. This area of the beautiful Algarve region in southern Portugal has a special past, however we fell in love with the place for our own reasons. After over a month of near constant travel, it was the first place we really settled in and relaxed since we had arrived in Europe. Not only was Sagres quiet and nearly empty of tourists, it was also a cheap and comfortable place to stay.

Since flying into Madrid the previous month, we’d rented a place near the center of every major town. Madrid, Avila, Salamanca, Porto and Lisbon were all beautiful cities, but being close to the center meant we had to give up precious living space.

For half the cost of a tiny apartment in Madrid or Lisbon we had a brand new, generously sized three bedroom condo with two full bathrooms all to ourselves and the place we were staying at was nearly deserted. After weeks in cramped places, it was awesome just to stretch out and let everyone relax.

That morning, feeling more refreshed than usual, we had decided to check out the sights in Sagres. A few miles out of town we found Sagres Point. Here, Henry The Navigator, a famed figure during the Age of Discoveries, walked these same cliffs in the 15th century and built a church and his home. Famed explorers were said to have trained in Sagres before setting off discovering new worlds. Even Christopher Columbus is said to have spent time in Sagres after a ship he was on sunk off Sagres cliffs.

Today, the Sagres Point promontory is an open museum including a large squat fortress built in the 1600s.

A lovely little semi-restored chapel from that same time period and a large 43 metre in diameter compass rose sit across from each other. Once past the squat barracks, there’s a long circular walkway that will let you see the fisherman and the famous cliffs up close. The views on the little peninsula overlooking both the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean are breathtaking.

It was a long walk and quite a cool and windy day when were there, so Micki and Jordan decided to seek the warmth in the little onsite cafeteria while Cole and I enjoyed the peninsulas sights and explored the cliffs.

Only a few kilometers away lies Cape St. Vincent, our next destination. It’s the most south-westernmost point in all of continental Europe and is another great place to check out the views. With one of the most powerful lighthouses in Europe lighting up the waters where ocean meets sea, it sits on an imposing rock of land.

Inside the gates, there’s a little museum and snack bar, however to our chagrin we weren’t allowed to see the lighthouse up close as we hoped. The kids did find an oversized seat that they quickly claimed for themselves as Micki and I checked out the views. There’s also a great viewing area as you walk up to the gate before getting in to watch more fisherman brave the heights and sit precariously as they wait for their next bite.

As we left Cape St. Vincent, we stopped at the nearby deserted ruins of Fortaleza de Belixe. We couldn’t find any information about the place and we weren’t even sure the land wasn’t private, however we still got out and looked around.

The fort had a gorgeous view and a twisting, steep path leading right down to the water from the battlements. By the time we got to the bottom there were already three other groups following us down so we knew it was probably okay to be there. We found out afterward that the place was supposedly closed due to safety concerns (the cliff is eroding away), but judging from the amount of people arriving there as we left, most tourists were disregarding the warnings.

Another interesting thing about the Sagres region is that it’s been populated since the Neolithic age. We had heard there were a few menhirs scattered around the nearby village of Vila do Bispo so we set off trying to find one. As a big fan of Asterix and Obelix comics growing up (they were the only comics in our school’s French library), it was a treat to finally see one of these huge sculpted standing stones in person.

There’s a menhir stone right in town, however to see a nice one it’s best to stop at the tourist booth in Bispo to get local directions. The only one we found that was still standing is a few kilometres outside of town on a lonely back stretch of road heading towards Sagres. Just when you think it can’t possibly be there, round the bend and drive another kilometer. It’s on the right.

To cap off the day, we decided to visit the marina in Sagres town proper. We were told you can see the fresh fish being unloaded in classic Portuguese fashion, however they weren’t unloading when we got there. Instead, we decided to take a long walk along the boardwalk along the beach before heading to one of the local restaurants for supper.

To say that Sagres’ quiet, deserted, windy, end of the world stay left an impression on us would be an understatement. With so many popular and busy beaches in the Algarve crammed with tourists during the summer we were glad to be able to have the place to ourselves. Based on the number of surf schools, windsurfer rental shops and kiteboarding outfits in town I’m glad we got to see Sagres during the off season.

If you ever get the chance, I definitely recommend checking out Sagres for yourself. Its cliffs may no longer mark the end of the known world,but when you’re stranding there it’s easy to believe they still do.

Grandmas tottering by in the morning, paper bags overfilled with their daily groceries clutched tight under their arms as they navigated the twisty, cobblestone streets. At night, party-goers filled the lanes by our little apartment in the Bairro Alto district; drunken, mostly happy and full of life. The city is a completely different place depending on what time of day it is.

Lisbon is also the largest city in Portugal, with a hair over half a million inhabitants. Lisboa (as the Portuguese call it) is drenched in history, and yet hopping with so many things to do that you could spend a month in the city and not see every monument, church and site worth mentioning. Here are 10 of our personal favorite things to do in Lisbon.

Look down once in a while

Many of Lisbon’s streets are paved with small tiles arranged in complex shapes. You’ll see swirls, waves, tall ships and a dizzying variety of geometric patterns, all covering the roadways of the center of the city.

Cost: Free

Stroll the city’s streets

For us, Libson’s greatest charm wasn’t in its (many) gorgeous churches or castles, or even in its lovely coastline. Instead, the twisting inner city streets, covered in cobblestones and pulsing with daily life were the city’s biggest draws. Even better, I’m quite sure that the unassuming city, which is so busy going about it’s daily grind, has absolutely no idea how cool it really is.

Cost: Free

Visit the Lisbon Oceanarium

We’re huge fans of any chance to get closer and connect with the natural world around us. That said, we couldn’t miss the chance to see the Lisbon Oceanarium, which is the largest indoor aquarium in Europe. We’d also heard this was one of the most impressive aquariums in the world, and I’d be hard pressed to argue. We were blown away by the large central aquarium, where you can watch sharks swim and see the tides ebb and flow, and the sizable, clean enclosures for penguins and otters.

Cost: 16 Euros for adults.

Try pastéis de nata at the Pasteis De Belem

Tucked a short drive outside of central Lisbon and close to Belem Tower, the Pasteis De Belem pastry shop is world renowned for their custard tarts (pastéis de nata). The tarts are made from a recipe that dates back from the nearby Jerónimos Monastery, and are reported to be made with the same (closely guarded) recipe since 1837.

We’re not lovers of custard tarts, but it’s not an exaggeration to say these little delights were a revelation. The crust is flaky, light, and not too sweet, and the inside is light and fluffy, with a hint of caramel.

Cost: About 2 Euro for three tarts

Check out the Belem Tower

Also called the Tower of St Vincent, the Belem Tower sits along the entrance to Lisbon harbor. It’s one of the remaining vestiges of the city’s old defense system and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s particularly pretty at sunset.

Cost: Free to look, and 5 Euros an adult to go inside.

Sip some Ginjinha

Perfect to cut the chill of a spring evening, ginjinha is made by infusing sour cherry (ginja) berries with alcohol. It’s a typical Lisbon drink, often served in a chocolate cup, and darn delicious. Ours was served with a marinated cherry at the bottom of the cup.

Cost: 1 Euro per cup (including chocolate)

Take a ride on the tram

As they have for decades, electric trams still run up and down Lisbon’s twisty streets, with cars dodging in and around them in a chaotic blur. The iconic tram #28 runs through the Baixa, Bairro Alto and Alfama districts, clunking past small neighborhood grocers and cafes.

Cost: Just over a Euro on board.

Grab a loaf

Without exception, every bakery we tried in Lisbon (and we tried many) made fragrant breads fresh every morning. We’d often make a simple lunch of a fresh baguette, fruit and some cheese. Delicious!

You really can’t go wrong in Lisbon, as there’s a good bakery on virtually every corner, but Padaria Portuguesa is a small chain of bakeries that offer up fresh breads and simple breakfast items and fresh juices to go.

Cost: Less than a Euro for a simple baguette.

Gelato at Santinis

With a crisp red and white decor, Santini’s is said to make the best gelato in Lisbon. After giving them a try, we’d be hard pressed to argue.

Our favorites? Try the doce leite (milk caramel) and the manga (mango).

Cost: About 2 Euro per cone

Look down over the rooftops

One of the great advantages of navigating Lisbon’s steep, twisty streets is the view that greets you at the top. Some of the best views are on the hills near the Castle of S. Jorge, looking out on the Tagus River.

Have you been to Lisbon? What were your favorite sights?

For more posts on Portugal and Spain, check out:

• Falling in Love with Porto in Photos
• Climbing the Cold Walls of Avila, Spain
• The Little Things We Love about Spain (And What Drives Us Crazy)
• For the Love of Squares, a Walk Around Centro, Madrid
• Driving Through Spain and Portugal

We thought we knew everything we needed before entering Portugal. However, as we frantically searched around for a post office to pay some tolls we knew nothing about on the last day of our trip, we knew we obviously missed something important along the way. It seems, like countless others before us, we had misunderstood how the toll roads worked in Portugal…

One of the biggest complaints from tourists entering Portugal these days revolves around Portugal’s new toll roads. Toll roads have existed in Portugal for years, but up until late 2012, they were all manned and drivers always had the option of paying the tolls as they went.

In the past years, electronic toll roads have sprung up everywhere in Portugal. Unlike the old tolls, simply paying the toll as you go isn’t an option. These new unmanned tolls are completely electronic and if you don’t pay up, the fines can add up quickly.

As of right now, there are two main types of toll collection for roads in Portugal. Via Verde lanes on the traditional toll roads and Electronic Toll roads.

Bonus tip! When you start traveling the world, be sure to bring a universal power adapter for all your charging needs.

The older, traditional toll roads, chiefly encountered around the bigger centers has what is called a Via Verde (Green Lane). These toll lanes are well marked with large green slanted V signs. The ones we drove through were always on the left however that might not be the case for all of them.

Currently, any place you see a Via Verde lane, you can pay in the other lanes as you go (using bills, coins, credit cards or prepaid cards) for each leg you travel.

In order for you to use a Via Verde lane, you must buy or temporarily rent an electronic transponder that is prepaid and gets debited every time you drive through the Via Verde toll lane.

Do not use this lane unless you have a Via Verde Transponder.

The new toll road system is known simply as Electronic Tolls. These toll roads aren’t as well marked and many people won’t even realize they are driving on them until they pass underneath a huge array of cameras.

The sign for the Electronic Tolls is a dark car with three circular beams expanding toward it. Practically every new major highway in Portugal is now an electronic toll road and though you can still bypass nearly all of them, it’s getting harder to get around the country without driving on one.

These toll roads do not have any toll booths and can’t be paid for as you go.

Problems with Electronic Tolls

As soon as these new electronic toll roads were introduced, they quickly became the bane of the tourist industry in Portugal and various political groups are trying to to get them removed. We met a lot of people from around the country that blame the new tolls for the steady decline of people driving into Portugal. With not a lot of information available, I can understand a dislike of the tolls.

If you’re are feeling reluctant to drive into Portugal or are flying in and want to rent a vehicle, know this: It’s not really that huge of a cost or hassle, assuming you understand the system.

Our final tally of Electronic Tolls after three weeks of driving from one end of the country to the other in a rental car only came to 30 Euro. We paid nearly that much in one stretch of Spain so the cost is not that bad considering the quality of the roads you get to drive on and the speed in which you can get around the country. The biggest problem is that there are a few things you need to know before going there.

There are two great resources on the web in regards to the tolls. I won’t rewrite everything since they provide lots of useful information and I’ll list them both at the end of this post. The problem with them is that neither list the following notes. These can save you a headache and after all that deliciously sweet Port wine, it would be a shame to leave the country on a sour note.

Note! For some reason, the main Portugal Tolls site (http://www.portugaltolls.com/en) seems to be intermittently oneline and offline. I’m not sure if it’s a permanent thing or server problems, however it was the primary source of legitimate government run info regarding Portugal Tolls on the internet. I’m leaving the links up with hope that the site comes back online for everyone.

What You Need To Know About Portugal’s Electronic Toll Roads:

1. Electronic Toll roads and traditional Via Verde lanes are separate systems.
2. Via Verde devices will work on Electronic Toll Roads however the EASYToll, TOLLCard and TOLLService will not work in Via Verde lanes. I repeat, EASYToll, TOLLCard and TOLLService will not work in Via Verde lanes. They’re completely independent systems. This is the one that slipped us up since we thought we could use our EASYTolls prepaid receipt in the Via Verde lanes. Turns out you can’t.
3. The easiest option for foreign visitors driving into the country from Spain is the EASYToll option. If you’re driving in via highway A-25 (E-80) from Salamanca, just keep driving as you cross the border into Portugal. About five kilometers in (we thought we must have missed it) and well past the little border town there are huge signs and directions to the EASYToll dispenser (it looks a little like a vending machine) just off the highway (close to a gas station). After pulling into the station we turned around and drove up to the EASYToll booth. We dropped in our credit card and the ticket instantly popped out with our license plate already on the ticket. It was incredibly easy to do, it lasts for 30 days and can be cancelled via their site as you leave the country.

Here’s the official site of Portugal Tolls. 

Another great link for information on Portugal’s tolls is Visit Portugal.

If you want to find out more about Via Verde, you can follow the link to the Via Verde homepage.

We booked our little rental car through Sixt. Use this link to compare car rental prices with Sixt and other companies on DiscoverCars.

Click here to see prices and availability.

And, to be honest, my first impression of Porto was that the city was dark (no thanks to the dark clouds and cold weather), cold and grimy.

As we drove into Porto, we were tired and chilled to the bone, thanks to a wicked cold snap roaring through Europe. Our GPS lost reception through the thick clouds, and we drove around in circles as Cole helpfully piped up “Mom, I’m think I’m going to be sick!” from the back seat. Such is the glamorous life of family travel blogging.

We were primed for a bad first impression of the city.

And yet, three days later, I found myself utterly in love with the city, and sorry to leave.

Here’s the story of how I fell in love with gritty, beautiful Porto, told through the lenses of our point and shoot Canon camera and iPhone.