Before we even set foot in the city, to us Seville evoked orange blossoms, flamenco and amazing architecture. And while we did find some amazing, traditional flamenco in Seville, and the architecture of the Plaza de Espana wowed us, what we loved most about the city just can’t be found in any guidebook.

For us, the pleasures of Seville were in the little things; Sevillanos enjoying a book by their local fountain, sidewalk cafes on every other street corner, parks with leafy trees, the buzz of people going about their regular lives, and the amazing little places to eat and enjoy tapas and wine throughout the city.

Seville is truly a walker’s city. Seville’s major sights (the Plaza de Espana, the Seville Cathedral and the Alcázar) are all within walking distance of downtown, and many streets in the center are so narrow that cars can barely squeeze in between the buildings.

This is a city for living; not just for existing. Take a walk with us through some of our favorite memories of Seville.

Honestly, often a lot of the biggest attractions really don’t live up to their advance billing.

But the Plaza de España in Seville, Spain was different.

In a city filled with gorgeous, historic architecture, I was expecting the Plaza de España to be a bit of a miss. After all, Seville is the city that houses the beautiful Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Sea, the largest Gothic cathedral and the third-largest church in the world. The city also houses the monumental Alcázar of Seville.

I was expecting the Plaza de Espana, built relatively recently when Seville hosted the Ibero-American Exposition in 1929, to have a hard time comparing to its famous city mates.

Turns out I was wrong.

After all, I should have expected a place that’s been used as a film backdrop multiple times to be something worth seeing. It’s absolutely worth a seeing, even on a short one day itinerary in Seville.

Iconic scenes from Lawrence of Arabia (1962) were filmed here. It was also used as the backdrop for the royal planet of Naboo in Star Wars Episode I: The Phantom Menace (1999) and Star Wars Episode II: Attack of the Clones (2002). The Plaza de Espana was even used as the presidential palace in Sacha Baron Cohen’s 2012 movie The Dictator.

Not only is the Plaza huge but there’s also a lot of attention to detail here. You can see this clearly in the detailed painted tiles and intricate column carvings. The sweeping scale of the place has to be experienced firsthand to truly appreciate it.

But the best part about the Plaza de Espania, I think, is the part it plays in the daily lives of the citizens of Seville. Parts of the building function as public administrative offices, while the center courtyard and large, adjacent Parque de María Luisa serve as meeting spaces for Sevillanos. It’s a peaceful place, with the clip-clop of horse-drawn carriages, the splashes of the boats in the water and the sounds of people chatting filling the air. It’s a great place to spend a few hours and let your imagination, and your kids, run free.

You know, like the fountain of youth, or a good coffee shop in small town Canada.

Sure, there are mentions of this iconic flamenco club on TripAdvisor and even the Lonely Planet, but we were having so much trouble actually finding the place that we were starting to wonder if it was just another cool, urban myth.

La Carbonería is only a 10 minute walk from the Seville Cathedral, but those 10 minutes were stretching into 20 as we contemplated the labyrinth of tiny cobbled lanes around us.

Four year old Jordan was getting heavier and heavier in my arms as we wandered the alleyways with Charles and seven year old Cole leading the way through the twisting streets. We were all astounded at how cars somehow managed to squeeze through the tiny alleys between the crammed buildings.

As we rounded a corner, suddenly there it was: the entrance to La Carboneria, with a broad red door welcoming us into what looked like an empty warehouse. Jordan’s soft little arms hugged my shoulders as we walked inside.

Inside the red door, we found a cavernous, rustic building. In a former incarnation, legend says that coal was once sold here. A huge wooden fireplace sat below a tall ceiling criss-crossed with heavy wooden beams, and a piano, a few scattered tables and a tiny stage area let us know that we were still in the smaller bar.

A kind gentleman who didn’t speak a word of English quickly ushered us into the larger, two tiered bar for the main attraction. We were a few minutes early for the 10:00 pm show and found a seat quickly on the raised second row, but the tables were packed within minutes of us entering.

We let the kids choose our seats on one of the thick benches running along the long, roughly cut wooden tables, grabbed a menu and waited for the show to begin.

The kids snacked on a plate of olives and cheese, while I tried their famous sangria (which was excellent). Charles enjoyed a pint of beer while chatting with some nearby patrons.

Being Spain, not much starts before 10:00 pm and the flamenco here was no exception. It was about 10:30 when the performers walked onstage – one guitarist, one singer and a single flamenco dancer.

By then, every available seat was filled, mostly with locals, but with a smattering of tourists as well. By the time we left La Carboneria at the end of the first show, it was so busy it was standing room only. We would have loved to stay for the next show (every 30 minutes we were told), however the kids were so tired that Charles and I didn’t feel like having to carry them home if they fell asleep.

The video here isn’t the best quality – it was shot on our point and shoot in low light, but I think it shows what all the fuss is about. The dancer is Rocío la Turronera, the daughter of famed singer El Turronero. The guitarist is Antonio Heredia, but we weren’t able to identify the singer. When we contacted the folks at La Carboneria to find out, they kindly emailed us back to let us know the singer was a last minute substitution and not their regular performer.

You Should Know

La Carboneria is hidden away on a windy side street at Calle Levíes, 18, in Seville, Spain, where the cobbled lanes are so narrow a single car sometimes has trouble fitting between the buildings.

This place isn’t to be missed. The drinks were affordable and the tapas simple but decent. The highlight was definitely the flamenco and the easygoing atmosphere.

If you’re on your way here for the 10 o’clock show, budget some extra time to find the building. You will need one (or all) of the following:

• a smartphone with Google Maps
• a good, detailed local map
• a local
• a bit of luck

Smoking is banned in all public places in Spain, so La Carboneria is smoke free. Children are also welcome to attend.

Entrance to La Carboneria and the flamenco show are free, but you’re expected to buy something to drink. Their house blended sangria is fruity, light and delicious.

La Carboneria’s website.